The Journal of Canadian

Wilderness Canoeing

  SPRING 2004











In this issue

Front Page



Spring Packet


From the Editor


Back Page





Payne is Pleasure in Ungava

Part  1  2 


Sylvie and Fabian camp near the end of the big outlet rapids from Payne Lake where the river begins.



There, dreaded alders four feet high lined the banks in some areas. And the last days in the estuary; the glassy sea; the race to arrive before the outgoing tide and waiting for the rising tide to set out again; the curious ringed seals; the families of eider ducks and their strategy of protection of their young; the very discrete belugas; the discovery of the Hammer of Thor; Kangirsuk in building mode; clouds of dust and noisy machinery because of the construction; the beach of Kuujjuaq where I burn my feet on the hot sand.

Lastly, a final word on the lost canoeists Daniel Pauzé and Susan Barnes, whom we did not know, but whose disappearance we learned about some time after our return. Their story moved us greatly. We had planned to make it to the Korok and Torngats in June, but for lack of partners, we had given up the project and it is what made us choose the Arnaud River. That made us realize how lucky we were compared to them, with particular thanks to the exceptionally favourable weather conditions which we experienced.

Many thanks to Michael Peake for his help with the translation. [Ed. Note: My thanks to the Internet!] As far as logistics, the costs and the technical difficulties of the river (far from many), you can communicate with me on email:


1. Peake, M., Across Ungava HACC Trip, up the Kogaluk and down the Payne rivers. Che-Mun, 1990, Outfit 62.

2 Plumet, P. Tuvaaluk: expédition multimédia dans la préhistoire du Nunavik,

3. Lee, T., The Cartier site, Payne Lake Ungava, in its Norse setting: part 2. Anthropological Journal of Canada, 1979, 17(2): p. 2-43.




 Spring 2004         Outfit 116 

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