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Ottertooth Forums * Temagami canoe routes & backcountry travel * Archive through May 19, 2011 * Advice sought * Archive through April 3, 2011 < Previous Next >

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rona
Member

Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2011
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2011 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

each year we (my husband and 2 kids) come over from scotland for a canoe trip in Ontario, over the last 10 years we have canoed extensively in both Algonquin and Killarney. This year we want to try temagami, however we are cautious of wind and as you can't book campsites by lake are worried all the sites will be full ? we have been looking at a circular loop trip starting at anima nipissing, lake hop westerly to Lady evelyn, then go north thru sucker gut and back east on lady evelyn , then back down the montreal river. is this a good idea ? or can anyone suggest a more scenic route ? is the montreal river a raging torrent there or a swamp ? we are looking at this route rather than an obvious temagami, diamond/wakakima lake loop as we can only go mid august and thought that would be too full of other people ???any advice or suggestions would be most welcome.
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ed
Moderator

Post Number: 969
Registered: 03-2004


Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2011 - 4:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Rona:
That is a bit unusual, but you could do it. The winds in mid August are predominately out of the SW, so travelling north up Lady Evelyn Lake should be OK and the Montreal River in that area is pretty placid. Current is not too strong and you should have no particular problems. It is a bit swampy through there, so campsites are not so good.

Were you thinking about going south from Anima Nipissing through McLeans, Carrying, Red Squirrel,and into Lake Temagami, then Diamond, and into Lady Evelyn Lake?
There are some cottages in the north part of Anima Nipissing and just a few on LEL.

You might tell us a bit more about your family... age of children and canoeing experience, and your thoughts about portaging.
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rona
Member

Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2011
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2011 - 5:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Hi, the girls are 12 and 14 , and we are now pretty experienced paddlers. we now hire 2 canoes rather than put the all of us in one, and have done some 8/9 day trips, last year we circumnavigated killarney, we actually like portaging as it breaks up the day and always portage in one go. so we are looking to do a 7/8 day trip , in a loop, that will avoid cottages, and people and we hate having to race to a campsite. My inital thoughts were to go anima, to eagle lake to Turner to sidervan and walsh into Lady evelyn , then north and left to willow island sucker gut etc. however as we don't know the area at all we would listen to any advice. we are not experinced in white water and would prefer small lakes rather than the big winds found in the big lakes, (had some scary moments in killareney last year) we always take our trip in the 2nd week in august. i so appreciate any advice and local knowledge. many thanks Rona
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grncnu
Member

Post Number: 50
Registered: 08-2010
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2011 - 7:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

you have many options- the temagami routes offer a lot more possibilities for interconnection than those elsewhere.
assuming you do not already have it, my #1 bit of advice would be to get a copy of hap wilson's superb guidebook which i think is now called "canoeing, kayaking and hiking in temagami". i see there are copies available in the UK at abebooks.com.
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rona
Member

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2011
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2011 - 2:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

I'll look out for the book many thanks
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ed
Moderator

Post Number: 970
Registered: 03-2004


Posted on Monday, March 14, 2011 - 2:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Rona:
Not sure if you have looked around ottertooth.com at some of the route maps available here, but the first part of the route you are thinking about is here:
http://www.ottertooth.com/Temagami/Maps/muskego-so uth.htm#map
Once you get off Anima Nipissing, and travel west through Whitewater etc. it will be pretty remote.The Muskego area is not well used, so the portages are not as clear as the ones you have encountered in Killarney or Algonquin, but they are passable. You will be going upstream on the Eagle River (creek at this point) and in August the water levels may be low, necessitating that you either get out and wade your canoes upstream or portage them along the river. Also there are numerous beaver dams around and you will have to lift over them.Lot's of fun on a warm summer day.
Turner Lake has a real nice site on the island.
Travelling west over to Walsh is a bit of a problem to get across the Tundra portage which can be boggy at times.When you enter LEL and paddle north a bit you can crossover through a series of portages into Willow Island Lake and then north into Sucker Gut. If you have time, you could hike up Maple Mountain by accessing Hobart and Tupper Lakes. Go to: http://www.ottertooth.com/Temagami/Sites/maple-mou ntain.htm

The book that grncnu is referring to is described here: http://www.ottertooth.com/Temagami/Wilson/sneak.ht m

If you are able to purchase the book in Scotland, that would help you a lot in planning your trip.
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rona
Member

Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2011
Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 2:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

hi
i've ordered the book, i get the impression that the route i have suggested is not one of great beauty or canoeing fun ! climbing the mountain is a great idea, so i will re look routes to accomodate the climb and avoid going upstrteam, over dams and swamps. ! i appreciate all the advice
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alscool
Moderator

Post Number: 284
Registered: 02-2004


Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

I would consider traversing the North and South Lady Evelyn Rivers ( the trout streams)seeing as you are coming so far and have decent experience.

This is well worth the effort in terms of rugged sceanary and reward for effort. You could get shuttled in the Beauty Lake or Portalance access and make your way across and Solace PP or the North Lady Evelyn, check out Florence Lake on the way, camp at Shangri~la, head up the north channel and then take the climb up Maple Mnt, and return via the South Channel and take a variation on the back track.
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ed
Moderator

Post Number: 971
Registered: 03-2004


Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

Let me try to reframe Alscools suggestion a bit.

You could fly into Florence and start there. You would have to check with Lakeland Airways located in the Town of Temagami for prices and ask if they are able to move 2 nested canoes, 2 adults, 2 children and gear in 1 trip.(You could rent Kevlar canoes,1 at ~ 17' and 1x 15' and ask the outfitter to nest them for you. (You reassemble them in Florence, which means replacing the seats and thwarts in the bigger canoe, a 15 minute job).
If this is not possible because you are going over the weight limit for a Beaver float plane then consider a land shuttle to Gamble Lake and start from there.

Paddle down the south or north LER , depending on your start point and head into Katherine Lake. Take the north branch of the river into Sucker Gut and go into Hobart to climb Maple Mountain. Then head back out through Sucker Gut going north to LEL and out to the Montreal River. Paddle down river to Latchford and have a ground shuttle pick you up from there or Mowat Landing if you think you are out of time.

I think either of these routes would let you travel at a more relaxed pace. But they are not as remote.
Just a suggestion.
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grncnu
Member

Post Number: 51
Registered: 08-2010
Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 7:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

glad you are getting the book.
if you are interested in a loop trip with secure parking, 7-8 days, taking in maple mountain and mostly lightly travelled, i would suggest
Hap's route #14 (mowat landing, lady e, sucker gut, hobart, anvil, mendelsohn, spray creek montreal river. wilson says 6-7 days but 8 days is about right for a normal person including the maple mountain hike (and at a leisurely pace). we did this on our first trip to temagami 20 years ago and have never regretted it.
plenty of variety, little travelled in our experience beyond maple mountain (though it's obviously unpredictable), excellent for wildlife, many good campsites, portages not too forbidding.
whichever route you pick, you'll probably get hooked on the area like we all have and end up doing all these routes eventually!
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curly
Member

Post Number: 255
Registered: 03-2006


Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2011 - 8:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Lakeland will not fly 2 canoes nested. And they won't fly anything over 16'. Maybe 16.5
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pine_sap
Member

Post Number: 62
Registered: 05-2004
Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2011 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

Also, by the second week of August, the traffic should be greatly reduced. I believe all of the youth camps have finished up by then. Those are the ones you would likely be "racing" for a campsite. The Trout Streams are BEAUTIFUL, but it is probably the most popular rout in all of Temagami, and you WILL encounter others on the rout even in mid August. For me that was not a bother, and have enjoyed sharing a campsite, talking fireside with other travelers.
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rona
Member

Post Number: 5
Registered: 03-2011
Posted on Thursday, March 17, 2011 - 9:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

many many thanks for all the really useful local knowledge, i'll let you know what we decide on.
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bvr
Member

Post Number: 11
Registered: 10-2008
Posted on Monday, March 21, 2011 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Lakeland will fly nested canoes and will fly canoes up to 18.5 feet. I know this because this is Lakeland.
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irishfield
Member

Post Number: 299
Registered: 11-2004


Posted on Tuesday, March 22, 2011 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

good to know!
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rona
Member

Post Number: 6
Registered: 03-2011
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

HI
i now have the Book, and it is fantastic, we are back to considering route number 14, Hap says however that it can be done in either direction, so we were considering going north up the montreal river to start with, what would be the view on this, is the current strong here ?? by going this way we would in theory ahve the wind behind us when we reach lady evelyn lake ??
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ed
Moderator

Post Number: 986
Registered: 03-2004


Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 1:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Rona:
You can go upstream on the Montreal River. The current is not especially strong in that area.
There is that long portage from Mendelsshon to Skull that will take some time.
I haven't done this part of the route, so if anyone else here has, please step in and offer your thoughts.
There may also be some logging activites in the Mendelssohn area this Summer.
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fireman
Member

Post Number: 151
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 2:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

I must wade in on this. The mowat landing put in is a long, tedious paddle compared to others. Plus, power boats are fairly common on that section. With two canoes and young kids, I would choose a path that avoids as much big,open paddling as possible and away from fishing boats.
May I suggest you go in at Ferguson Bay, to Sharp Rock then into Diamond up the North Arm to Lady Evelyn across to Willow Island, up to Maple Mountain, back down up into Center Falls then back out the way you came into Diamond all the way west and portage into Wakimika, then Obabika, check out the Old Growth and either back up into Diamond, which is a tough portage or down and across the Obabika Inlet back into Temagami and up the coast back to your starting point. It will give you all the jewels, keeps you away from fishermen, mostly and is, quite simply, a beautiful route.
I brought folks from overseas through it. They had never been to Canada. It blew them away.
Good Luck
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ed
Moderator

Post Number: 987
Registered: 03-2004


Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 4:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Rona:
Fireman is suggesting you consider doing a selection of Routes #6, #2 and # 14.
This may not be immediately obvious to you, as you look at the book, but it encompasses many of the best parts of Temagami. But I think you would have to be pushing it to get it done in 8 days. 9 to 10 days would be better.Or you would have to use a fly in to reduce the number of days.

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grncnu
Member

Post Number: 58
Registered: 08-2010
Posted on Monday, March 28, 2011 - 12:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

hey rona, glad you got the guidebook. in defense of route 14, what fireman is referring to is the stretch of the montreal river from spray creek to mowat landing, which he describes as tedious. i know what he means, it is low-lying country, doesn't change much; however i always found it very picturesque. if you like beavers, this is the place- if you're quiet you'll see ten or more along with dozens of massive beaver lodges. at least in august you will be spared the mosquitoes, which are terrible there in early july! anyway it's only one day out of seven or eight.
i've done the route both ways and would recommend doing it clockwise. this way you do maple mountain first; then while everyone else goes back to hobart lake, you carry on up willow island creek. from there you probably won't see a soul until mendelsohn lake or the montreal.
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rona
Member

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2011
Posted on Sunday, April 3, 2011 - 5:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

i love the look of Firemans suggestion, one question though do you mean go up the north channel of the river to center falls all the way to Katherine lake and then back down the south channel ? is that possible ?
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ed
Moderator

Post Number: 994
Registered: 03-2004


Posted on Sunday, April 3, 2011 - 7:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

Rona:
You could do either, depending on how much time you have available.
You could travel up to Centre Falls and come back out the way you went in or continue on up the North channel to Katherine Lake (also known as Divide Lake)and then take the South channel of the Lady Evelyn River back down to Willow Island Lake. The portage back into Diamond from here is pretty brutal(long). Or, you could paddle north on Willow Island a bit and use the crossover route back into Lady Evelyn Lake and from there go back into Diamond.

It takes at least 2 days to go up and down the 2 channels, but 3 would be better especially with 2 kids along so you did not feel too rushed.(This route is called the staircase).
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fireman
Member

Post Number: 154
Registered: 08-2009
Posted on Sunday, April 3, 2011 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

Hey Rona,
I should mention that ten years ago, my friends and I were in remote Temagami during late September when we came across two Scottish gentlemen. We were lining up a rapid, they were lining down. We were all cold and rain soaked under grey skies and we could see there smiling Celtic mugs a mile away. They had flown directly from Toronto up to North Bay and then into Temagami by float plane. It was their first time in Canada and they were having the time of their lives. So, Scottish adventurers find what they are seeking in the magical world of Temagami.

As to my route suggestion, I would be inclined toward returning from Center Falls back into Sucker Gut and into Diamond either by portage or roundabout route. A long, tough portage into Diamond is simply, for you folks, a matter of time. you will do it. There are no poisonous swamps or fierce creatures.
Doing all of the North and South Channels, or Trout Streams or Staircase, as much as I love to travel there, is, I think, pushing it timewise and, more importantly, safety wise. There are some very difficult, rocky sections in all of the portages, some extremely tricky (Fat Man's, Hap's Place, boulder gardens)and dangerous.
I have no doubts you could do it with your kids. I have with my 12 year-old daughter and wife. But, given you are in a different country, unfamiliar with our search and rescue attributes, first time in Temagami and all....
The prudent choice is to taste of the Channels but not to be stuck having chosen that route.
Center Falls for the first time, will blow your minds. And the route back through is absolutely beautiful in its own way. And very safe.
I am taking 18 year olds to Temagami in late June and we are doing the same route I suggested to you. I chose it based on gathering a lot of opinions and knowledge from this very forum.
So, you are simply using previous research on the same questions I had.
It is all beautiful. You will be with your family doing the thing we all understand to be magical beyond description. You will have no regrets.
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bush_pilot
Member

Post Number: 194
Registered: 03-2004


Posted on Sunday, April 3, 2011 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post

Rona
I'll be doing the exact opposite of you this summer, I'll be visiting Scotland for the first time with my 2 children. No matter what you decide to do you'll love Temagami, especially compared to Algonquin
Enjoy
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doug_2
Member

Post Number: 166
Registered: 12-2004
Posted on Sunday, April 3, 2011 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post

Fireman makes some good points I think. I especially like his points about motorboats.
Most routes in Killarney and Algonquin don't have motor boats so to get that "no motor" experience in Temagami it pays to choose a route very carefully. I agree that the north channel Lady Evelyn River /Maple Mt combination is a very good one for highlights. All things considered I think the north channel has less "dangerous" portages than the the south channel, if that is a consideration for safety. What are the designated fly in lakes along the LE River system now? Is it just Florence Lake or is McPherson Lake still an option.? I've canoed all over Temagami and most of Algonquin and Killarney too. There is nothing like the Lady Evelyn River in those parks. Still, Algonquin does have some nice routes too I think..I rediscovered some spring routes there that are pretty awesome. To me though, Lady Evelyn River is unique in the province. Special for sure.

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